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Are you are Lebenskünstler? Or just a Connoisseur of the Art of Living?

= Wer seinen Sommer so erlebt, daß er ihm noch den Winter wärmt.
(He who experiences the summer in such a way that it still warms him through the winter)
– Definition of Lebenskünstler from Alfred Polgar (1873 – 1955), Austrian writer and critic

Esther statue adorning front porch of Ernst Fuchs' Museum / Otto Wagner Villa in Vienna

Esther statue adorning front porch of Ernst Fuchs’ Museum / Otto Wagner Villa in Vienna

Last week a group of friends and I were given a private tour of the Vienna villa / museum of Austrian artist of fantastic realism, Ernst Fuchs. As the tour guide enlightened us on the WWII atrocities that inspired Ernst Fuchs’ earliest horrific works, the feminine endowments that gave rise to his later sensual pieces distracted our attention. “Definitely a butt man.” Someone felt compelled to utter the obvious. And somewhere along the way, between the Jesus self-portraits and the Esther statue that towered from the front porch like the flying lady on a hood of a Rolls Royce (without the wings, standing tall with a big bosom and even bigger buttocks), the tour guide mentioned Ernst Fuchs’ wives and lovers and other lady friends.

Ernst Fuchs Room in Villa with Paintings and Designs

Ernst Fuchs Room in Villa with Paintings and Designs

Three wives? Or four? And sixteen children with seven women? Or is it seventeen? If you include the one he adopted from yet another woman. And grandchildren? Well in his mid-eighties, how many is that per decade? We were all doing the math in our heads. I could see it on my friends’ faces. I could also see when they reached the result.

But the prim and proper tour guide was definitely smitten and a Ernst Fuchs connoisseur. Enamored or simply in awe? That too was discussed at length afterwards but we couldn’t agree. Afterall, who can know what lies in the depths of a woman’s heart. Perhaps not even she will admit the obvious.

In any case, either while expounding on yet another posterior perspective or answering yet another question about private pursuits (When was the first child born? How many by the same woman? How many when he left to live as a monk in Israel?), the loyal guide inevitably just shook her head and smiled, “He’s simply a Lebenskünstler.”

A Lebenskünstler. Of course. Her description was predictable. In fact I had used the exact same word on our way to the villa. A German woman had commented, “But I always thought the Austrians were so conservative” and I had piped in, “Have you seen Klimt, Schiele, Kokoschka, Hundertwasser? Austrians make quite an exception for their Lebenskünstler – the exotic animals in the zoo of society.”

Ernst Fuchs Photo

Ernst Fuchs Photo

Oh those adorable untamable Lebenskünstler. Sixteen children but who’s counting (except those of us in the tour group). As long as they’re also producing art and having fun.

Lebenskünstler. What a word. With no proper English translation. Just the kind of word a secret word junkie like me can adore. Joining the ranks of Zeitgeist and Schadenfreude. Of course the concepts are universal but the English version of the word remains uninvented, as if refusal to give birth to its physical form could stymie its higher existence.

It is what it is.

One translator of Lebenskünstler recommended the French word bon vivant. I was hopeful until I translated it back into German again (a way to test if you have really nailed a translation). Unfortunately bon vivant is apparently a Lebemann which is more a playboy. And while a Lebenskünstler can indeed be a playboy (see Ernst Fuchs though I think he would deny being a playboy), that doesn’t quite fit.

Jesus Ernst Fuchs Painting

Jesus Ernst Fuchs Painting

So we move to other possible translations. Here are some: hedonist (someone who sees the goal of life as being the pursuit of pleasure). This is close but still not quite right. Bohemian also doesn’t cut it. Neither does eccentric; enjoyer of the good life; master in the art of living; artist of life; pleasure-seeker – none of which are to be outdone by my personal favorite — connoisseur of the art of living.

Next time we attend a writing conference, promise me you’ll make them write, “KC Blau, Connoisseur of the Art of Living” on my name tag. You can be the master in the art of living.

God forbid we’d dare to write Lebenskünstlerin because there are no female Lebenskünstlers. In German the female version would be a Lebenskünstlerin and that just doesn’t seem to exist. Nope. It seems that Lebenskünstlerei is preserved for men alone.

So maybe one translation was closer than I originally thought. It described Lebenskünstler as – “special individuals.” Almost makes it sound like the Society of Lebenskünstler lobbied for politically correct treatment. Special individuals.

Ernst Fuch Jesus Painting

Ernst Fuchs Jesus Painting

So who are these “special individuals” exactly?

Perhaps a direct translation would shed some light on the matter. Lebenskünstler is a compound word of the word Leben (life) and Künstler (artist). Life artist. But that doesn’t really tell you what it is either.

Hauntingly accurate portrait by teenage Ernst Fuchs of himself as old man

Hauntingly accurate portrait by teenage Ernst Fuchs of himself as an old man

Remember the 2002 Leonardo Di Caprio film, Catch Me if You Can? It was based on the life of Frank William Abagnale, Jr.. That character is the perfect example of a Lebenskünstler. A Lebenskünstler is a man who treats life like a game with rules meant to be bent (or ignored or cheated) in order to successfully squeeze what he wants out of it. So while Lebenskünstler are usually artists who don’t follow the social norms but manage to get by and along with others just fine, nevertheless, they can also be others (like the Frank Abagnale guy). And a big part of what makes a Lebenskünstler a Lebenskünstler is the fact that the rest of society kind of just finds the behavior charming rather than condemnable.

Room in Ernst Fuchs' Villa / Museum in Vienna, Austria (villa originally designed by Otto Wagner)

Room in Ernst Fuchs’ Villa / Museum in Vienna, Austria (villa originally designed by Otto Wagner)

Silly you. Living under the bridge? Whiling away your days drawing in Parisian cafes? Fathered another child? Well you are a Lebenskünstler.

What about you? A Lebenskünstler? Or just a connoisseur of life?

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Vienna’s Christmas Markets – It’s Time for Glühwein!

Here it is – KC’s List of Vienna’s Christmas Markets

Rathaus

Vienna’s Biggest Christmas Market – Rathaus (City Hall) photo courtesy of M. Gardzina

Reading from the US? Click on some of the links and imagine the smell of pine, roasted chestnuts, gingerbread, sausages and cotton candy. Feel the tingle on your cheeks as the crisp winter air nips at your nose, and enjoy the bright warm glow of colored lights and sparkling reflections of Christmas tree ornaments and angels’ wings. Then sulk a bit that you are not in Vienna because this is the Christmas Market Season and we are not lacking choices, here folks. Yes. In the States you can boast about your 101 choices of orange juice and aisles upon aisles of Mexican food. True. Austria has none of that. But Jolly Ol’ St. Nick do we have Christmas.

You can always bring a bit of the Christmas Market home to you by brewing up some Glühwein (see Nov 23 post for the “how to” of Glühwein: https://www.kcblau.com/gluehwein/). Also, here is a great video of the Rathaus Christmas Market I found on youtube that you might want to check out. The music is somber but fitting. The blonde woman in white getting her photo taken with the kiddies is the Austrian “Christkindl” – Christ Child – who comes Christmas eve instead of Santa Claus and for reasons beyond my comprehension is a young blonde woman (oh do we ever escape mantasies?) — I always imagined her as Tinkerbell to be honest. : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AprSvGVK-BQ

Rathaus Christmas Market

Vienna City Hall (Rathaus) Christmas Market

In Vienna? Then do what the Austrians do. Meet up with everyone you’ve been meaning to get together with all year but haven’t managed. Now.  Quick! Before the bell of Stephansdom rings in a new year. Go for a Punsch with colleagues after work (maybe even during, the markets open early and the Rathaus is all so close). Or Auntie Emma who you keep promising to visit. She is always much more entertaining with a Glühwein one or two.

Christmas Market

Christmas at Maria Thereseian Platz – Museum of Natural Hist. Photo courtesy of M. Gardzina

 Meet up with friends at one or — what the heck – all 21 or so markets and 1131 stands– so many choices and so little time and you have oh so many friends!

Gluehwein at Schönnbrunn Castle Christmas Market - photo courtesy of M. Gardzina

Gluehwein at Schönnbrunn Castle Christmas Market – photo courtesy of M. Gardzina

And if you don’t there are plenty of folks hanging out at these markets so maybe you are only one Glühwein away from a new lifelong friend or two.

Important – the place to meet at the market is none other than the Glühwein stand. Suggest somewhere else and you are a hopeless foreigner. But same rule here as for the Sturm outing (see Sept. blog post: https://www.kcblau.com/?s=sturm) – no singing until the Austrians whip out their lighters and break out into the first verse of Stille Nacht (they rarely know the second). Once that happens, Unsilent your Night till the Fiakers roll home (or return).

Baked Goods

Baked Goods at Christmas Market in Vienna. Photo courtesy of M. Gardzina.

I will post photos as I make my rounds. The KC challenge – how many will I manage before the Christmas markets become New Year’s stands. And if you have photos help me cheat by sending me some and I’ll try to post if they’re civilized.

Where’s Santa? Christkindl? An indoor market? Candle light parade? Krampus? Abba? Middle Ages market? Gospel music? Light of Bethlehem? Check it all out here:

Altes AKH (Allgemeines Krankenhaus) – Old General Hospital Adventmarket
Old AKH, Alserstr/Spitalgasse, Universitätscampus – Courtyard (Hof) 1
Start: Nov 16 Mo – Fr 2pm – 10pm; Sat, Sun, Holidays 11 am – 10 pm
http://www.weihnachtsdorf.at/altes-akh/der-markt/informationen/
Public: take U 2 to Schottentor and then tram 43 or 44 to Lange Gasse; trams 33 or 5 to Lange Gasse; Bus 13A to Skodagasse

Am Hof Adventmarket
Next to the Golden Quartier

Am Hof Christmas Market

Am Hof Christmas Market

Start: 15 Nov daily Mon – Thurs 11am – 8 pm; weekends: 10 am – 9 m
As they say in German “Klein aber fein”
http://kunsthandwerksmarkt.at/index.php?id=36&no_cache=1&tx_dmkhmmarkttermine_pi1[item]=6
Public: U3 to Herrengasse, 2 minute walk over Haarhof and Irisgasse; U1 to Stephansplatz then 10 minute lovely walk over Graben towards Meinl, then the Bognergasse; U2 to Schottentor then walk up Schottengasse, past (or first at) Freyung Christmas Market, further up road and hit Am Hof.

Belvedere Castle Adventmarket
At the Upper Belvedere directly in front of the pond
Start: Nov 22; Mo-Fr 11-9pm and Sat & Sun 10 – 9pm
http://www.weihnachtsdorf.at/schloss-belvedere/der-markt/informationen/
Public: U1 to Südtirolerplatz, tram D to stop Schloss Belvedere, 18/O stop Südbahnhof, or buses 13A or 69A Stop Südbahnhof (south train station)

Columbusplatz Adventmarket – (neighborhood market)
1100 Vienna
Start: as of Nov 22

Favoritenstraße / Quellenstraße Adventmarket – (neighborhood market)
1110 Vienna
Start: Nov 15

Favoriten (Pedestrian Zone) Adventmarket – (neighborhood market)

Ornament Stand at Christmas Market in Vienna

Ornaments at Christmas Market. Photo courtesy of M. Gardzina

1110 Vienna
Start: as of Nov 15

Franz Jonas Platz Adventmarket – (neighborhood market)
1210 Vienna
Start: Nov 15

Freyung Adventmarket
Start: Nov. 22, daily 10 am – 9 pm
Celebration at opening on Friday, Nov 22 at 5 pm.
Make an advent wreath on Satuday, Nov 30 from 10 am – 3:30 pm

Freyung Christmas Market

Freyung Christmas Market. Photo courtesy of M. Gardzina

http://www.altwiener-markt.at/start.html
Public: subway: U2 to Schottentor and walk down Schottengasse into town, or U3 to Herrengasse and walk past Café Central towards Schottengasse,  or bus 1A or 2A,

Heeresgeschichtliches Museum Adventmarket
Arsenal 18, 1030 Vienna
From Nov 29 – Dec 1. Punch Happy hours 2 pm – 10 pm
Nikolaus AND Krampus will be there.
Highlight: Middle Ages Christmas Market
http://www.hgm.or.at/
Public: trams 18, D, O, Buses 13A, 69A, Subways U1 (Südtirolerplatz) or U3 (Schlachthausgasse) or Express Train (Schnellbahn) to station Südbahnhof Address and Info How to Get to Heeresgeschichtliches Museum via Public

Hirschstetten – Garden and Glass House of the Vienna City Gardens Adventmarket
“Christmas Dreams” (This is a market I’ve never been to but will try to visit this year — sounds cool)
In the warm cozy glass houses of the flower gardens of Hirschstetten
Flower Gardens Hirschstetten, South Entrance, Quadenstrasse 15; North entrance: Oberfelgasse across from O Nr. 41
Start: as of 21 Nov, Thurs-Sun 10-8 pm
http://www.wien.gv.at/umwelt/parks/blumengaerten-hirschstetten/veranstaltungen/weihnachten.html
Public: subway U1 to Kagraner Platz and then Bus 22A 10 minutes to Hischenstetten, Süßenbrunner Str

Karlskirche Advent Market
Resselpark, 1040 Vienna
This year’s motto: “Fiery celebration” Stand after stand in front of the always lovely Karlskirche (https://divinaart.at/)
Start:  22. Nov, daily from noon – 8 pm
Highlight: On Friday, Dec 13 at 5 pm they will have a candle light parade through the market to mark Santa Lucia Fest
http://www.divinaart.at/kunsthandwerk/
Public: U4/U1/U2 >Karlsplatz, exit Resslpark, Trams 1 & 62, Buses 4A, 59A or walk from trams 1,2,or D from Kärtner Ring, Oper or bus 3A

Kirche (Church) Maria Hilf – (neighborhood market)
1010 Vienna

Ornaments at Christmas Market

Ornaments at Christmas Market

in front of church, 1060 Vienna
Start: Nov 16

 

Landstraßer Hauptstraße near Invalidenstraße Adventmarket – (neighborhood market)
1030 Vienna
Start: Nov 15

Mahlerstrasse Adventmarket – (neighborhood market)
1010 Vienna
Start: Nov 15

Maria Theresien Platz  Adventmarket
Between the Art History Museum (Kunsthistorisches Museum) and Museum of Natural History (Naturhistorisches Museum)
Start: Nov 20 Daily 11am – 10 pm.
http://www.weihnachtsdorf.at/maria-theresien-platz/der-markt/informationen/
Public: U2 or U3 stations Volkstheater or Museumsquartier, trams along the Ring D, J, 1, 2 as well as 46 and 49 – Station: Dr. Karl Renner Ring or Bus 2A to Burgring, or 4A to Dr. Karl Renner Ring

Meidlinger Hauptstrasse Adventmarket – (neighborhood market)
1120 Vienna
As of Nov 16

Museumsquartier Adventmarket

Sausage Stand at Christmas Market

Sausage Stand at Christmas Market


Museumsplatz 1, 1070 Vienna
Start: as of Nov 8
Public: subway U2 to Museumsquartier

Naschmarkt Adventmarket
Schleifmühlbrücke, 1060 Vienna
Start: Nov 29

Prater / Riesenrad Adventmarket
In front of the Giant Ferris Wheel – Live Shows and Hot Punch
Every Thurs – Sat starting at 7 pm – live concerts with gospel, pop and soul music.
The Coco Cola Santa will be present with his igloo and waiting to have his photo taken with big and little kids
Start: Nov 16, Mo-Fr 12 – 10 pm, weekends 11 – 10 pm
http://www.wintermarkt.at/wintermarkt/
http://www.prater.at/Berichte/Ansicht.php?Id=1730778
Public: U2 or U1 to Praterstern

Rathaus X-Mas Tree

Rathaus X-Mas Tree. Photo courtesy of M. Gardzina

Rathaus / Vienna City Hall Adventmarket
Highlights: See Vienna’s biggest market and official Christmas Tree – this year from the Styria – over 100 years old and 30 meters high
Start: As of Nov 16, Sun – Thurs 10 am – 9:30 pm, Fri & Sat: 10 am – 10 pm
More Highlights: Lighting of the Christmas Tree: Saturday, November 16 at 5:30 pm with over 1000 energy efficient lights.
Starting Nov 18, Vienna’s high society will be reading Christmas stories at 6 pm almost every day at the “Himmelsbühne” (Heaven Stage).
And even more Highlights: The Christkindl (Christ Child – blonde girl) will be present Thurs – Sun 4 pm – 7 pm;
Christmas Post office with Christmas stamps for letters
http://www.christkindlmarkt.at/News-Events.3.0.html?&L=1
Public: trams 1 or D directly in front of Rathaus or take U2 subway to Schottentor or Rathaus and walk over

Schloss Hof Adventmarket
(A bit outside of Vienna in Gänserndorf)
Over 100 stands, musical concerts Saturdays at 5pm
Entrance: 5€ adults, 2€ kids or family tickets for 12 €
Start: 23. Nov.; weekends only, Saturdays 10am – 8pm; Sundays, 10am – 6pm
http://www.weihnachtsdorf.at/schloss-hof/der-markt/informationen/
Public: trains and buses – see info in German here: http://www.schlosshof.at/cms_neu/index.php?page=anreise-shuttle-lage

Schloss Neugebäude Adventmarket
Otmar-Brix-Gasse 1, 1110 Vienna
Thurs Dec 5 2 pm – 8pm; Fri Dec 6 2 pm – 8 pm, Sat Dec 7 10 am – 9 pm and Sun Dec 8 10 am – 8 pm
Highlight: Saturday, Dec 7 at 5:30 pm – ABBA show “Christmas Program” and at 7 pm Krampuses come a huntin’ – all you bad kids better hide!
http://www.schlossneugebaeude.at/
Public: subway U3 until Simmering and then with the bus 73A to Hörtengasse

Schloss Wilhelminenberg
Savoyenstrasse 2, 1160 Vienna
Kids can also ice skate next to the castle
Start: as of Nov 15
Public: bus 46B or 146B

Schönbrunn Christmas Market

Schönbrunn Christmas Market. Photo courtesy of M. Gardzina

Schönbrunn Castle  Adventmarket
Beautifully situated in the front of Schönbrunn castle.

Start: 23 Nov; Daily 3-7pm
As of 6 Dec 2 – 6 pm
http://www.weihnachtsmarkt.co.at/en.php/Program/index.php
Public: Subway U4/green line to Schönbrunn stop (for park) or Hietzing stop (for zoo)

Spittelberg Adventmarket
For crafts lovers and everyone else. One of my all-time favorite markets. The cobblestone lanes and little houses just feel like you are on the scene of Christmas train set.
Start: Nov 15, Mo – Thurs 2pm – 9pm; Fridays 2 pm – 9:30 pm, Sat 10 am – 9:30 pm and Sundays and Holidays 10 am – 9 pm.
http://www.spittelberg.at/index.php?en_wm_programm
Public: tram 49, subway U2 to Volkstheater, bus 49A

Stephansplatz Christmas Market

Stephansdom Christmas Market in Vienna

Stephansdom Christmas Market in Vienna


Start: Nov 16, daily from 11am – 9pm
http://www.weihnachtsmarkt-stephansplatz.at/index.html
Public: U1 / U3 Stephansplatz

Stift (Monastery) Schotten  Adventmarket
Breitenleer Strasse 247, 1220 Vienna
Start: Dec 1

Türkenschanzpark Adventmarket – (neighborhood market)
1180 Vienna
Start: as of Nov 15

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Saints, Souls, Death and the Viennese – 1 Nov Allerheiligen

Angel Statue in St. Marx Cemetery in Vienna

Angel Statue in St. Marx Cemetery in Vienna

Der Tod muss ein Wiener sein…” (Death must be Viennese)
(Der Tod: Das muss ein Wiener sein , song title of 1969 song by Georg Kreisler)

On All Saints’ Day (November 1)  and All Souls’ Day (November 2) the Viennese pilgrim to the cemeteries to light candles and pray for those who have passed (sometimes hoping to help them out of purgatory (or in German Fegefeuer sweeping fire)).

You don’t have to be here long to recognize that the Viennese have a special relationship with death. “Ein schönen Leich” (a beautiful corpse/ funeral) is as Viennese as the folk songs that cheerfully, acceptingly, ironically lament the inevitable fate of every human. And no blog about Vienna would be truly complete without mentioning death.

YOU CAN RING MY BELL , RING MY BELL…

THE FUNERAL MUSEUM OF VIENNA (Bestattungsmuseum)

For years this museum was listed as one of Vienna’s fun sites to see as in, “Hey, after we visit the Fool’s Tower (Narrenturm), let’s hit the Funeral Museum! Won’t that be fun!” Well, it was indeed interesting but unfortunately, the museum is closed until its reopening in September 2014 at Vienna’s Central Cemetery – a very fitting new home.

Church of Saint Charles Borromew in VIenna's Central Cemetery

Church of Saint Charles Borromew in Vienna’s Central Cemetery

An interactive site at the museum was a bell with a long string attached to corpses in coffins. If someone was buried alive, he or she could theoretically ring the bell signaling the heroic funeral workers to spring to the rescue. The reality was, however, that due to postmortem spasms and unfortunate corpse positions, the bells rang non-stop and the heroic funeral workers not-so-heroically ignored them.

Which is probably why an Austrian playwright who was sometimes dubbed the “Austrian Shakespeare”, Johann Nestroy, feared being buried alive so much that he spent much of his last will and testament giving very specific instructions about measures he wanted taken to prevent this possibility. “The only thing I fear about death, is the idea that I could possibly be buried alive.” (January 31, 1861) Nestroy was generally a pretty funny guy but it seems he took being buried alive very seriously.

CEMETERY OF THE NAMELESS (Friedhof der Namenlosen)

“The goal of all life is death.”  – Sigmund Freud

Tombstone "Wiedersehen" in St. Maarx Cemetery Vienna

Tombstone “Wiedersehen” in St. Marx Cemetery Vienna

Vienna boasts over 40 Roman-Catholic cemeteries but those don’t do much good for the “weary of lifers” (Lebensmüde) who have plunged to their untimely deaths into the murky waters of the Danube.  For many of those and others who have died namelessly and whose bodies have washed ashore, there’s the Cemetery of the Nameless. Most of the graves state simply “Unknown” or “Nameless.” Every year in November, the cemetery honors those who have never been recovered and whose remains still grace the Danube floor by launching a wreath down the the Danube towards the Black Sea. This year the ceremony will take place on Sunday, November 10, at 2 pm – gathering at the restaurant by the cemetery

VIENNESE LOVE STATUS EVEN IN DEATH

Helmut Qualtinger Grave in Central Cemetery in Vienna

The honor grave of Austrian musical, theater and comedic legend, Helmut Qualtinger, at Central Cemetery in Vienna

Honorary graves were created in the Central Cemetery to up the prestige of the cemetery in the late 1800s a few years after the cemetery’s creation. Viennese are notorious for their initial skepticism to all that is new and in a brilliant 19th century PR move to increase the new cemetery’s popularity, the city of Vienna moved  most of its prominent dead to “Honor Graves.” These include Brahms, Beethoven and Schubert – graves still popular today. Vienna grants the selected few Honor Graves for the life of the cemetery and assumes the costs for caring for the graves. In an interview in Austrian National Television, (ORF – link below) a reporter asks the man in charge of the grave honor what one has to do get an Honor Grave. His response? “Well, it’s not a very desirable achievement since the first thing you have to do is die.”

BUT DEATH MAKES NO DISTINCTIONS AND THREE TIMES A CHARM – EVEN WHEN YOU’RE DEAD (July 2011, Habsburg and the last Austrian royal funeral)

Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart's Grave at St. Marx Cemetery in Vienna

Mozart’s Grave in St. Marx Cemetery in Vienna

“Death as the true best friend of man.” – Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart

Since 1633, Austrian royalty has been buried in the Imperial Crypt under the Capuchin Church in Vienna. Some body parts, however, such as the hearts and intestines are buried elsewhere. Currently over 145 members of the House of Habsburg have their last resting place in the Imperial Crypt. When Otto von Habsburg passed in July 2011, a traditional royal funeral was held with all the pomp and circumstance and is said to be the last time an Austrian royal will ever be buried in the Imperial Crypt.

Open Sesame – watch the link above (July 2011) and here’s what you’re witnessing:

Schubert's Tombstone at the Central Cemetery in Vienna

Schubert’s Tombstone at the Central Cemetery in Vienna

A Herald in a black suit leads the casket procession through the heart of old Vienna up to the Capuchin Church. The Herald knocks upon the iron gates with his long black cane. A Capuchin monk, whose brethren have held watch over the crypt since the 1600s, asks: “Who demands entry?”

After hundreds of years, you would think someone would have written down the right answer but nein. In attempts one and two, the Herald iterates an exhausting list of the the dead royal’s titles and accomplishments. Nearly three whole minutes. But the monks, being monks, are stoic and patient and simply respond, “Don’t know ’em.” (In all fairness to the monks, this seems a very benevolent response. After almost 4 centuries of conducting this ritual, I’d be a bit more testy with such slow students. Or maybe I’d paint a cheat sheet on the iron gate.)

Finally, upon the third attempt, eureka. The Herald responds, “Otto, a sinful mortal.”

Bingo! The gates open and the monks respond: “So then come inside.” (Monkese for, “Why didn’t you say so in the first place?”)

ST. MARX CEMETERY

“The biggest effort in life is not getting accustomed to death.” – Elias Canetti

Angel on Tombstone at St. Marx's Cemetery

Angel on Tombstone at St. Marx’s Cemetery

I had never been to St. Marx and always wanted to go so this past weekend I went. Finally I managed to visit the place where Mozart’s bones are said to be buried somewhere in a mass grave. And I was not disappointed. Again, just when I thought I knew every single one of her little secrets, Vienna sprung a beauty on me. A wonderful surprise and a trip I highly recommend. I love this place. (Take bus 74A from the road that passes in front of Wien Mitte/ Landstrasse (on the U4 and U3 lines) to the station Hofmannsthalgasse – just a short hop and skip from there.)

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Central Cemetery, Vienna, one of the biggest cemetery's in all of Europe

Central Cemetery, Vienna, one of the biggest cemetery’s in all of Europe

Cross marking Austrian Artist, Max Weiler's burial place, Central Cemetery

Cross marking Austrian Artist, Max Weiler’s burial place, Central Cemetery

Tombstone of Johannes Brahms in Vienna's Central Cemetery

Tombstone of Johannes Brahms in Vienna’s Central Cemetery

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Friday the 13th, Blood Lane and the Assassination of the Knights of Templar

This world nis but a thurghfare ful of wo,
And we ben pilgrimes, passinge to and fro;
Deeth is an ende of every worldly sore.
– Geoffry Chaucer, The Canterbury Tales, “The Knight’s Tale”

Behind St. Stephan’s Cathedral, in one of the oldest quarters of Vienna, is a cobblestone, car-free lane called Blutgasse. “Blut” means “blood” and “Gasse” means “lane” or “alley.”

At Blutgasse 9, a passageway leads into a charming courtyard dominated by an ancient tree ascending into the heavens and harboring an equally old cellar stair descending into the bowels of the earth.

Blutgasse Templar Cross

Cobblestones in Blutgasse with View of Cellar Covering with Templar Cross

The perfect place to encounter legends and myths.

And, of course, Vienna doesn’t disappoint.

The courtyard is Fähnrichshof — fabled as the former headquarters of the Knights of Templar in Vienna and a place where the knights may have hidden their treasures.

Street sign for Blutgasse 7 in Vienna's first district

Street sign for Blutgasse 7 in Vienna’s first district

But who were the Templar Knights?

Well, the story goes that the Templar Knights were a secret society and eventually an elite military force started by nine French noblemen in 1118 who claimed they would protect pilgrims on their journey to Jerusalem. The King of Jerusalem, Baldwin I, allowed the knights to take up residence in the Tempelberg in Jerusalem, today the Al-Aqsa-Temple, and thus they got the name, the Knights of Templar. But during their stay in Jerusalem, the Templar Knights were doing more than protecting some pilgrims; they were digging beneath the temple for sacred artifacts that had been buried. Eventually they were successful in this endeavor and transported their treasures back to Europe.

Fähnrichshof

Courtyard Blutgasse 9, Fähnrichshof, Headquarters of Knights of Templar in Vienna in 1300s

Things seemed to be going well for the knights who built cathedrals throughout Europe, grew in number and directly answered to the pope. But then came 1307.

Apparently in 1307 King Philip owed the knights quite a sum of money and decided one way to deal with his dilemma would be to accuse the knights of heresy. So, according to the legend, on Friday, October 13, 1307, King Philip had the knights in France arrested, tortured and killed and ended their time in France. Thus, Friday the 13th became marked as an unlucky day.

The knights were able to transfer their treasures abroad, and some believe these landed with the German Order of Teutonic Knights and the St. John’s Order – both of which had groups in Vienna.

And what were these treasures? The holy grail, the ark of covenant, the head of Baphomet, and more –  ended up somewhere but no one knows for sure where.

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Cellar Stairs leading from Fähnrichshof fabled to have been the Knights of Templar Headquarters

Cellar Stairs leading from Fähnrichshof fabled to have been the Knights of Templar Headquarters

The Vienna Review had an interesting article on the legends surrounding the Blutgasse. Read “The Knights of Blood Alley” here: http://www.viennareview.net/on-the-town/the-knights-of-blood-alley

Knights of Templar Cross Covering Cellar Window in Blutgasse

Knights of Templar Cross Covering Cellar Window in Blutgasse

Another good resource about the legends of the knights and free masons is the German language book:

Bouchal, Robert, and Gabriele Lukacs. Geheimnisvoller Da-Vinci-Code in Wien Verborgene Zeichen & Versteckte Botschaften. Wien: Pichler, 2009. Print.

Interested in Vienna and legends? Read about the Stock-im-Eisen tree stump, the Holy Lance (Spear of Destiny) and the Last Supper mosaic.

The legendary Blutgasse in the old town of Vienna

The legendary Blutgasse in the old town of Vienna

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