Posts from the ‘Customs’ Category

Nov 21

Vienna’s Christmas Markets 2014 – Tis the Season for Glühwein and Cheer!

Here it is – KC’s List of Vienna’s Christmas Markets

Cause Jolly Ol’ St. Nick do we have Christmas in this town!

Not able to swing by between now in Christmas – poor you — but don’t fret – you can always bring a bit of the Christmas Market home to you by brewing up some Glühwein (see “How to” of Glühwein post: https://www.kcblau.com/gluehwein/).

In Vienna? Then saddle up your sleigh and start making your rounds because there is a lot of Glühwein to be kosten here (or go for some Punsch if you dare). Now, if anyone asks, what’s the appeal of your evening market outings, act all Christkindl like and claim it’s all about finding just the right present for that special someone. The Viennese will give you a knowing nod cause they know why one is hanging out at the glittery tinsel strewn mistel toe stands this time of year and it is NOT to buy another beeswax candle.

Christmas at Maria Thereseian Platz – Museum of Natural Hist. Photo courtesy of M. Gardzina

Meet up with friends at one or — what the heck – all 21 or so markets and 1131 stands– so many choices and so little time and you have oh so many friends!

Gluehwein at Schönnbrunn Castle Christmas Market – photo courtesy of M. Gardzina

And if you don’t there are plenty of potentials all hanging out at these markets all over the city. Wer nicht wagt, der nicht gewinnt. Let’s face it. You could very likely be just one Glühwein away from your lifelong very best friend. Or two. Or three.

Important – the place to meet at the market is none other than the Glühwein stand. Suggest somewhere else and you are a hopeless foreigner. But same rule here as for the Sturm outing (see Sept. blog post: https://www.kcblau.com/?s=sturm) – no singing until the Austrians whip out their lighters and break out into the first verse of Stille Nacht (they rarely know the second). Once that happens, Unsilent your Night till the Fiakers roll home (or return).

Where’s Christkindl? An indoor market? Candle light parade? Krampus? Abba?

Baked Goods

Middle Ages market? Gospel music? Who’s got the Llama? Check it all out here:

Altes AKH (Allgemeines Krankenhaus) – Old General Hospital Adventmarket
Old AKH, Alserstr/Spitalgasse, Universitätscampus – Courtyard (Hof) 1
Start: Nov 15 Mo – Fr 2pm – 10pm; Sat, Sun, Holidays 11 am – 10 pm
http://www.weihnachtsdorf.at/altes-akh/der-markt/informationen/
Public: take U 2 to Schottentor and then tram 43 or 44 to Lange Gasse; trams 33 or 5 to Lange Gasse; Bus 13A to Skodagasse
Fri, Nov 28: KRAMPUS! @ 6 pm. Don’t miss ’em. Followed by Ron Glaser & Band at 7 pm.

Am Hof Adventmarket
Art & Antiques Market
Next to the Golden Quartier
Start: 14 Nov daily Mon – Thurs 11am – 10 pm; weekends: 10 am – 10 pm
As they say in German “Klein aber fein”
http://www.weihnachtsmarkt-markthof.at
Public: U3 to Herrengasse, 2 minute walk over Haarhof and Irisgasse; U1 to Stephansplatz then 10 minute lovely walk over Graben towards Meinl, then the Bognergasse; U2 to Schottentor then walk up Schottengasse, past (or first at) Freyung Christmas Market, further up road and hit Am Hof.

Am Hof Christmas Market

Belvedere Castle Adventmarket
At the Upper Belvedere directly in front of the pond
Start: Nov 21; Mo-Fr 11-9pm and Sat & Sun 10 – 9pm
Opening: Nov 21 @ 6 pm Babara Helfgott & Police Brass
http://www.weihnachtsdorf.at/schloss-belvedere/der-markt/informationen/
Public: U1 to Südtirolerplatz, tram D to stop Schloss Belvedere, 18/O stop Südbahnhof, or buses 13A or 69A Stop Südbahnhof (south train station)

Columbusplatz Adventmarket – (neighborhood market)
1100 Vienna
Start: as of Nov 28,
Daily 9 am – 9 pm, 12 stands, 2 food stands, (Dec 24: 9 am – 4 pm)

Favoritenstraße / Quellenstraße Adventmarket – (neighborhood market)
1110 Vienna
Start: Nov 14

Ornament Stand at Christmas Market in Vienna

Ornaments at Christmas Market. Photo courtesy of M. Gardzina

Favoriten (Pedestrian Zone) Adventmarket – (neighborhood market)
1100 Vienna
Start: as of Nov 14

Franz Jonas Platz Adventmarket – (neighborhood market)
Franz Jonas Platz 1, 1210 Vienna
Start: Nov 14
weekdays 9 am – 9 pm, Dec 24: 9 am – 3 pm

Freyung Adventmarket
“Altwiener Christkindlmarkt” (Old Vienna Christ Child Market)
Start: Nov. 21, daily 10 am – 9 pm
Celebration at opening on Friday, Nov 22 at 5 pm.
Featuring the longest manger scene – a 46 meter long reproduction of a manger painting by Josef Ritter von Fuehrich (1800 – 1876) – a paper cut out of the manger scene can be purchased at Stand Nr 51
Dec 5 – Nikolaus is visiting so if you haven’t been too naughty, I’d go. And on Nov 29, learn how to make an advent wreath during the craft classes held every weekend from 10 am – 3:30 pm
http://www.altwiener-markt.at/start.html
Public: subway: U2 to Schottentor and walk down Schottengasse into town, or U3 to Herrengasse and walk past Café Central towards Schottengasse, or bus 1A or 2A,

Heeresgeschichtliches Museum Adventmarket
Arsenal 18, 1030 Vienna
From Dec 6 – Dec 8 Hours 10 am – 6 pm
Highlight: Middle Ages Christmas Market
http://www.hgm.or.at/
Public: trams 18, D, O, Buses 13A, 69A, Subways U1 (Südtirolerplatz) or U3 (Schlachthausgasse) or Express Train (Schnellbahn) to station Südbahnhof Address and Info How to Get to Heeresgeschichtliches Museum via Public

Freyung Christmas Market. Photo courtesy of M. Gardzina

Hirschstetten – Garden and Glass House of the Vienna City Gardens Adventmarket
“Christmas in the Alps” (This is a market I’ve never been to but will try to visit this year — sounds cool) Lots of organic foods – cheese, honey, Apfelmost, raspberry vinegar…
In the warm cozy glass houses of the flower gardens of Hirschstetten
Flower Gardens Hirschstetten, South Entrance, Quadenstrasse 15; North entrance: Oberfelgasse across from O Nr. 41
Start: as of 20 Nov, Thurs-Sun 10-8 pm
http://www.wien.gv.at/umwelt/parks/blumengaerten-hirschstetten/veranstaltungen/weihnachten.html
Public: subway U1 to Kagraner Platz and then Bus 22A 10 minutes to Hischenstetten, Süßenbrunner Str

Karlskirche Advent Market
Resselpark, 1040 Vienna
Arts and crafts
This year’s motto: “Fiery celebration” Stand after stand in front of the always lovely Karlskirche (https://divinaart.at)
Start: 21. Nov, daily from noon – 8 pm
Highlight: On Friday, Dec 13 at 5 pm they will have a candle light parade through the market to mark Santa Lucia Fest
They’ve got Llamas, folks! Fri – Sun, 2 pm – 5:30 pm Amadeus and Diego await your Llama love.
http://www.divinaart.at/kunsthandwerk/
Public: U4/U1/U2 >Karlsplatz, exit Resslpark, Trams 1 & 62, Buses 4A, 59A or walk from trams 1,2,or D from Kärntner Ring, Oper or bus 3A

Kirche (Church) Maria Hilf – (neighborhood market)
Mariahilferstrasse 55 , 1060 Vienna
Start: Nov 15, daily: 9 am – 8 pm

K.u.K. Christmas Market
Michaelerplatz, 1010 Vienna
Starts: Nov 15

Ornaments at Christmas Market

Landstraßer Hauptstraße near Invalidenstraße Adventmarket – (neighborhood market)
1030 Vienna
Start: Nov 15

Mahlerstrasse Adventmarket – (neighborhood market)
1010 Vienna – beside the Opera by the Ringstrasse Gallerie
Start: Nov 14, daily: 11 am – 9 pm

Maria Theresien Platz Adventmarket
Between the Art History Museum (Kunsthistorisches Museum) and Museum of Natural History (Naturhistorisches Museum)
Start: Nov 19 Daily 11am – 10 pm.
http://www.weihnachtsdorf.at/maria-theresien-platz/der-markt/informationen/
Public: U2 or U3 stations Volkstheater or Museumsquartier, trams along the Ring D, J, 1, 2 as well as 46 and 49 – Station: Dr. Karl Renner Ring or Bus 2A to Burgring, or 4A to Dr. Karl Renner Ring

Meidlinger Hauptstrasse Adventmarket – (neighborhood market)
1120 Vienna
As of Nov 15

Museumsquartier Adventmarket
Winter in the MQ
Museumsquartier 1, 1070 Vienna
Start: as of Nov 6, Mon – Fri: 4 pm – 11 pm; Sat, Dun, Holidays: 2pm – 11 pm
Public: subway U2 to Museumsquartier

Sausage Stand at Christmas Market

Pink Christmas in Vienna NEW! FIRST YEAR!
(Queer, Pink & Proud)
Kettenbrückengasse, 1060 Vienna (Naschmarkt)
In honor of World Aids Day in cooperation with Aids Help Vienna
Start: Dec 1 – 24, 26- 31.
Mon – Fri 2 pm – 10 pm, Sat 10 am – 10 pm, Sun noon – 10 pm
Dec 24: 10 am – 6 pm, Dec 31: 2 pm – midnight
Public: subway U4 to Kettenbrückengasse
http://www.pink-christmas.org/
7 pm – Opening Show under the Motto: “We are Family!”

Prater / Riesenrad Adventmarket
“Prater Rocks”
In front of the Giant Ferris Wheel – Live Shows and Hot Punch
Every Thurs – Sat starting at 7 pm – live concerts with gospel, pop and soul music.
Sun, Nov 30: KRAMPUS! @ 5 – 6:30 pm. Don’t miss ’em “Perchtenlauf”: “Ybbstaler Schluchtenteufel”
Start: Nov 22, Mo-Fr 12 – 10 pm, weekends 11 – 10 pm
http://www.wintermarkt.at/wintermarkt/
Public: U2 or U1 to Praterstern

Rathaus – Vienna’s biggest Christmas Market

Rathaus / Vienna City Hall Adventmarket
Highlights: See Vienna’s biggest market and official Christmas Tree – this year from the South Tyrol – over 140 years old and 28 meters high
Start: As of Nov 15, Sun – Thurs 10 am – 9:30 pm, Fri & Sat: 10 am – 10 pm
More Highlights: Lighting of the Christmas Tree: Saturday, November 15 at 5:30 pm with over 1000 energy efficient lights.
Starting Nov 17, Vienna’s high society will be reading Christmas stories at 6 pm almost every day at the “Himmelsbühne” (Heaven Stage).
And even more Highlights: The Christkindl (Christ Child – blonde girl) will be present Thurs – Sun 4 pm – 7 pm;
Christmas Post office with Christmas stamps for letters
http://www.christkindlmarkt.at/News-Events.3.0.html?&L=1
Public: trams 1 or D directly in front of Rathaus or take U2 subway to Schottentor or Rathaus and walk over

Schloss Hof Adventmarket
(A bit outside of Vienna in Gänserndorf)
Over 100 stands, musical concerts Saturdays at 5pm
Entrance: 5€ adults, 2€ kids or family tickets for 12 €
Start: 22. Nov.; weekends only, Saturdays 10am – 8pm; Sundays, 10am – 6pm
http://www.weihnachtsdorf.at/schloss-hof/der-markt/informationen/
Public: trains and buses – see info in German here:

https://www.schlosshof.at/en/visitors-information/how-to-get-there/

Krampus and KC @ Schloss Neugebaeude in 2013

Schloss Neugebäude Adventmarket
Otmar-Brix-Gasse 1, 1110 Vienna
Thurs Dec 4 2 pm – 8pm; Fri Dec 5 2 pm – 8 pm, Sat Dec 6 2 pm – 9 pm and Sun & Mom Dec 7 & 8 10 am – 8 pm

Krampus misunderstanding – he thinks KC’s been naughty – 2013 at Schloss Neugebaeude

Highlight: Saturday, Dec 6 at 7:00 pm KRAMPUS and they are ready to hunt you down (https://www.kcblau.com/krampus/) //ABBA show Monday Dec 8 @ 4 pm “Christmas Program”
http://www.schlossneugebaeude.at/
Public: subway U3 until Simmering and then with the bus 73A to Hörtengasse

Schloss Wilhelminenberg
Savoyenstrasse 2, 1160 Vienna
Kids can also ice skate next to the castle
Start: as of Nov 14, Mon – Thurs: 4pm – 9pm, Fri: 3pm – 9pm Sat, Sun (Holidays) 11am – 9pm
Public: bus 46B or 146B

Schönbrunn Christmas Market. Photo courtesy of M. Gardzina

Schönbrunn Castle Adventmarket
Beautifully situated in the front of Schönbrunn castle.
On exhibit – 220 mangers carved from wood, Christ Child (Christkindl) from Nov 22 – Dec 26
Start: 22 Nov; Daily 10am – 9pm
http://www.weihnachtsmarkt.co.at/de/der-markt.php
Public: Subway U4/green line to Schönbrunn stop (for park) or Hietzing stop (for zoo)

Spittelberg Adventmarket
For crafts lovers and everyone else. One of my all-time favorite markets. The cobblestone lanes and little houses just feel like you are on the scene of Christmas train set. More than 100 stands and over 25 years old.
Start: Nov 14, Mo – Thurs 2pm – 9pm; Fridays 2 pm – 9:30 pm, Sat 10 am – 9:30 pm and Sundays and Holidays 10 am – 9 pm.
http://www.spittelberg.at/index.php?en_wm_programm
Public: tram 49, subway U2 to Volkstheater, bus 49A

Stephansplatz Christmas Market
Right beside Steffl, it doesn’t get more Christmasy than that.
Start: Nov 15, daily from 11am – 9pm
http://www.weihnachtsmarkt-stephansplatz.at/index.html
Public: U1 / U3 Stephansplatz

Stephansdom Christmas Market in Vienna

Stift (Monastery) Schotten Adventmarket
Breitenleer Strasse 247, 1220 Vienna
Start: Nov 30

Türkenschanzpark Adventmarket – (neighborhood market)
1180 Vienna
Start: as of Nov 14

Nov 20

4 Comments

The Top 10 of the Top 5 Expat Bloggers in Austria – Week 2: A Mommy Abroad

As mentioned, back in April of this year,the English language online news blog, The Local, featured “The Five Best Expat Blogs in Austria.”

Who knew?

I certainly didn’t and I was thrilled to learn I had been included on a list with like-minded expats in Austria spreading the word, I decided to reach out and invite them to come hang out with us for a post and meet you all via a blog tour. Fortunately, they enthusiastically agreed so in November/December, I am featuring expat bloggers, with each of their Top 10 Favorite Things Austrian.

During the first week feature, we focused on expat blogger, Kristina Cosumano from the blog, The Practice Room.

This week, we are featuring Emily, who describes herself as “a stay-at-home mom of two little boys, and one of the least likely people you’d ever expect to decide to live abroad with her family” and author of the blog, A Mommy Abroad

Expat Blogger, Emily’s Top 10 Favorite Austrian Things

No high fructose corn syrup in these Krapfen

Krapfen – NOT Dunkin Donuts

1) Food

I never thought I’d say this, but this was a tough choice. When I first moved here, I was not at all a fan of the food. “Where are the vegetables? Why is everything fried? What, exactly, is Leberkäse?” (Never mind, don’t answer that.) Since the early days, though, I’ve learned to love a lot about Austrian cuisine (and the frequently served Hungarian imports, like goulash and lángos) but my absolute favorite is the Krapfen, an Austrian doughnut. I’ll never be happy with Dunkin’ Donuts now.

2) Drink

Until this past summer, I would have answered this differently, but on vacation in the Austrian Alps this summer (and strongly encouraged by my sister, an American with a vast knowledge of tasty beverages) I discovered the refreshing satisfaction that is a Radler — a tasty combination of beer and citrus soda. Grapefruit is my favorite

3) Film or TV Show

The Third Man — Not an Austrian film, but set here in Vienna, and I didn’t see it until I lived here, so I’ll count it. Interesting, shocking and confusing to see the devastation after the war (more confusing given the way the city is shot and edited together). But I call it my favorite mostly because the building where I live is in it (the part with the cat).

4) Book

I’m embarrassed to say that I’ve got nothing for this one. This is partly because my German is just now becoming literature-worthy, and partly (mostly) because most of the reading I’ve done in the past few years has been board books rather than novels. I was amused and entertained to examine the differences between the original “The Very Hungry Caterpillar” and the German translation (Die Kleine Raupe Nimmersatt) — pomegranates instead of oranges and all the strawberries face the same way — but that’s all I can offer.

Red rose bush in Volksgarten in June (Photo: A Mommy Abroad)

5) Month

June gets the win for me. At home, I had learned to lump June into the hot, humid, unpleasant summer months, but here, June is still (usually) spring. Walking through the Volksgarten in June, with the roses all in bloom — it’s hard to top that. I also really like November, though — it’s chilly and dark (before I’ve gotten tired of it being chilly and dark), the Christmas lights are going up, it’s often foggy and a little bit cozy and romantic.

Michaeler Gate – Michaelerplatz

6) Place

Michealerplatz in the heart of Vienna. Stephansplatz is the iconic focus of Vienna, and Heldenplatz is certainly grand, but I love Michealerplatz the best. It’s got just enough hustle and bustle without being overrun, and it still looks and feels a bit like old Vienna (more or less).

7) Historical Figure

Johann Strauss. As a ballroom dance enthusiast, I find him the most inspirational.

8) Tradition / Past time

Laternenfest, St. Martin’s Day Celebrations, November 11 (Photo: A Mommy Abroad)

Lanternenfest. Of all the categories, this was the one I had the hardest time choosing. Christmas markets, summer sledding, ice skating, Krampus — so many great traditions and pastimes in Austria! But Martinitag, and most particularly the childrens’ Lanternenfests, are my favorite. I love the story of St. Martin, the tradition of the lanterns and the songs … though I’m not yet convinced about eating goose to celebrate.

9) Song

Blue Danube Waltz. This has been a favorite of mine since my dancing days, but living here makes it a bit more special (though I’ve never seen the Danube manage to look quite blue).

10) Word

Gemütlichkeit. Coziness. Perfect word, and it just covers so much of the warmth, community and tradition of Austria. Perfect!

Nov 1

Grave of Josef Strauss in Vienna's Central Cemetery

November 1 – Allerheiligen – All Saint’s Day

Too good to be forgotten

And can it be that in a world so full and busy the loss of one creature makes a void so wide and deep that nothing but the width and depth of eternity can fill it up!
~ Charles Dickens (1812-1870)

I woke up this morning with a rather long to-do list. By the time I shuffled my way to the front door to fetch the morning newspaper, my long list had dwindled to zero items. Why? Because the Saturday paper was missing and that could only mean one thing. And no, you’re wrong. We did get some random tricker-or-treaters but the thought that they could have pulled a prank and stolen the paper never even occurred to me. Vienna tends to be a rather safe city and I have rather vigilant neighbors and a mutt who lives on the 4th floor who would throw a fit if even the Fairy Godmother tried to sneak past him. I mean this is the country where someone I know left his iPod on the train, called the good ol’ ÖBB and of course his iPod had been turned in and ÖBB had it in the mail and sent back to him that same week.

Austrian Cemetery on Allerheiligen

No, a missing morning paper is always the tall tale sign that it’s a national holiday that I’ve probably forgotten. Normally not a bad thing on a work day but on a Saturday, a rather unfortunate occurrence. Because a national holiday in Austria means that EVERYTHING is closed.

Skulls in Hallstatt Cemetery

The Saturday market, the bakery, the hair dresser, the grocery store, all closed. And since nothing in Austria is open on Sundays, ever, except the random life-saving bakery and the train station claustrophobic-inducing grocery stores with aisles that get narrower as you shop, then when you overlook a holiday, you are reduced to waiting 61 hours (!) from Friday evening 7 pm until Monday morning 8 am until everything opens once again. You’d be amazed at the creative culinary delights you can whip up from cans of expired baked beans and boxes of couscous hiding deep in the depths of your empty pantry. Because of course, the same country that sees fit to close their grocery stores for long periods of time is the same place yet to discover how practical warehouse-sized boxes of spaghetti noodles and large jars of sauce can be. When you live in a country that places a high value on healthy food options, you have to also accept that the loaf of bread you buy might actually not have enough preservatives to keep it fresh for five months.

But I digress.

Austrian Cemetery on Allerheiligen

What I really wanted, was to direct you to a post about All Saint’s Day written last year which you might have missed. Because while I might suffer slight hunger pangs this weekend from some bare kitchen shelves, I’ll suck it up and tell myself that, according to the Austrians, fasting is healthy. Then I’ll throw on my jacket tonight and make my way to a cemetery because it’s something you don’t want to miss — the sea of flickering candle lights illuminating Austrian’s cemeteries on November 1 — hauntingly beautiful. And be grateful to have a day to think back and remember those who we loved and who have already reached the inevitable end of our life’s journey. Sure, they’re always there in our hearts but having one special day where everyone is remembering, together, in their own way, their own, is special.

Nov 1

Seegruber Restaurant overlooking Innsbruck

4 Comments

The Top 10 of the Top 5 Expat Bloggers in Austria – Week 1: The Practice Room

Back in April of this year,the English language online news blog, The Local, featured “The Five Best Expat Blogs in Austria.”

Who knew?

I certainly didn’t until I found out quite accidentally this past week. Thrilled to learn I had been included on a list with like-minded expats in Austria spreading the word, I decided to reach out and invite them to come hang out with us for a post and meet you all via a blog tour. Fortunately, they enthusiastically agreed so in November, I will feature one expat blogger per week, with each of their Top 10 Favorite Things Austrian.

So here it is — Week One featuring the blogger brave enough to go first: expat soloist/singer Kristina Cosumano who lives in Tirol and writes about just about everything and especially about all things Tyrolean and author of the blog, The Practice Room.

Expat Blogger, Kristina Cosumano’s Top 10 Favorite Austrian Things

1) Food

Wiener Schnitzel with a dollop of Preiselbeeren.

2) Drink

A Melange from Cafe Munding in the Innsbrucker Altstadt.

3) Film or TV Show

Anything with Josef Hader. “Indien”, for example.

4) Book

“Im Alphabet der Häuser” von Christoph W. Bauer. Right now I’m reading his book of short stories, “In einer Bar unter dem Meer”.

Fliess in late October, photo by Kristina Cosumano

5) Month

October. Tirolean “Altweibsommer” (Indian Summer), when it’s sunny and dry, is perfect.

6) Place

Unusual, forgotten places. For instance there’s a curve on a forest road between Landeck and Fliess, where there are grooves worn into rock from centuries of Roman wagon wheels. There is a cave in the Rofan Mountains north of the Achensee with “Etruscan” texts carved onto the walls. There is a grassy mound next to the Bergisl ski jump, under which are the remains of an ancient sacrificial burning altar from pre-Christian times.

the Roman “Via Claudia Augusta” in Tirol photo by Kristina Cosumano

7) Historical Figure

Maria Theresia. Mozart. Erich Wolfgang Korngold.

8) Tradition / Past time

A hike to the Alm for Schnitzel and a Radler.

9) Song

Mozart, Eine kleine deutsche Kantata, KV 619. The text, more or less: For God’s sake, stop warring and love your neighbor.

10) Word

Well, I have favorite phrases rather than words. Such as “taking the Nr. 71” (tram, which runs to Vienna Central Cemetery) as a euphemism for dying; that a situation is “hoffnungsloss aber nicht ernst” (hopeless but not serious). Or what I refer to as the Official Motto of Tirol, “Es wird schon”.

Website of Fiction Author K.C. Blau

Posts from the ‘Customs’ Category

Vienna’s Christmas Markets 2014 – Tis the Season for Glühwein and Cheer!

The Top 10 of the Top 5 Expat Bloggers in Austria – Week 2: A Mommy Abroad

November 1 – Allerheiligen – All Saint’s Day

The Top 10 of the Top 5 Expat Bloggers in Austria – Week 1: The Practice Room

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